Thursday, May 31, 2012

Bolivian Cuisine

So what do they eat in Bolivia?


I looked online to see what people who've experienced the cuisine of Bolivia thought of the food and to just see their opinions and sadly found that quite a few people found it hard to eat there, wasn't full of substance and flavor, and didn't fancy it too much. I completely disagree. How could you have trouble finding food in Bolivia when there is food everywhere you go?! On and off the street. I wonder how many of those people actually went out of their way to sample what this country offers? Did they stick to the touristy restaurants that serve more international cuisines? Which oddly, I didn't really see any of those types of restaurants..I consider Bolivia far from touristy. I don't recall an McD's while there -- WOO HOO! Thankfully there were those who tried to defend the country and said there is a staple cuisine there and you didn't look hard enough!

Some of the main staples of the Bolivian cuisine are: corn, potatoes, and beans. Some local foods, grains, meats, and dishes are: aji, chicha, locro, quinoa, pasta, rice, anticuchos, saltenas (empanadas), duck, beef, chicken, pork, guinea pig, llama, alpaca, ispi, trucha (trout), frog, ispi, sopas, chicharron, chuno, majao, humitas, pacumutu, and llajwa.

Personally, I loved the food there. Actually, I really miss the food that I had in Bolivia. Very comforting. Filling. Flavorful. Every dish is full of soul. Love.

I remember every cook (pretty much all women~didn't see a single male chef in the kitchen) who tried to entice me with their food, always had a smile on their face, proud of what they were making, and wanted to give me the chance to feel their love through their dish. Every. single. time. And when I told them that I loved what I was eating, you could just see the joy and love in their eyes knowing that they are being appreciated for their hard work in, what is known as the 'poorest/least developed country in South America', which I also disagree with that statement. It may not look perfect, but there is so much love and good people there, that I think overpowers the looks of the city.

I actually had two of the same dishes from this one female cook on my last two days in Bolivia. Normally, I won't eat the same dish twice for memorable reasons, but I ended up really craving it so much that I made it my last meal in Bolivia. The fact that this lady not only remembered me and served me the same dish that I had wanted again, made her so incredibly happy. You could see it in her eyes.

I've recreated a few things I've had there and attempted to recreate my favorite dish, mentioned above, but it just ends up not tasting the same.:( That and the fish I had there is most likely not found here. If anyone finds Ispi here in California, let me know and I will LOVE you forever! Couldn't get enough of that tiny fried fish! And yes, I did try to recreate it with smelt, but it didn't come close enough. Ahhh!

This isn't everything I ate there but just some of the things I indulged in while I was in the beautiful and hard to breathe in country of Bolivia, The altitude really does affect your camera's battery (and your lungs) so it was not with me for some meals. Hope this makes you hungry:





So here we have what I call home cooked meals in a 'mall food court~parking garage' family setting. This is located over what is supposed to be a mall in La Paz. You won't find international food here. And definitely not touristy. (I don't consider Bolivia really touristy.) More of a locals area. I enjoyed eating here because it's a completely different eating experience. Street food is just as good here as going to this 'eating area'. Each small family style eatery has one 'picnic' table and a small stove next to it to go with it.

Locals will just come out of nowhere, sit down, order their meal, and sit with family or with strangers in this family setting. You eat your food, take your time because lunch is important to the Bolivians, pay, and leave. I loved sitting down ordering and then watching many other Bolivians sitting down at the table next to and across from me and waiting for a really good meal to be served. I loved that I was not treated differently because I was the only American at the table. Apparently this was a problem to some I came across but I didn't see anything out of the ordinary.

Actually when it came to food, they didn't mind me there. Everyone is equal when it came to eating. Wish the border patrol treated us the same way! :-p But I believe I already mentioned that in a previous blog post 'Misconceptions'.


She, like all other female cooks here that I experienced, knew what she was doing!


Typical prices for meals. Very cheap eats to be had here. 5 Bs = ~75 cents. 10 Bs = ~US$1.50.





Fruit drinks are prominent in Bolivia, as in all South American countries. Need to just start doing that here while I'm in the US. My favorite blend here is Cherimoya-Mango-Maracuya-Banana.



Ice Cream here is everywhere you go. Sadly, I didn't partake in it because I've been lactose intolerant since 2009 after probably drinking too much te con leche in Argentina---which I don't regret one sip! May sound iffy and trust me I wish it wasn't the case! Apparently you can become lactose intolerant for no good reason. :-p I will bring lactose pills but I prefer to eat ice cream from a shop now wherever I go. I did however, ask some friends what they thought about it and they said it's okay. Doesn't really have the taste of ice cream. A lot of people agreed upon this as well. Maybe next time...


I did succumb to the jello food cart! Not bad. :) Not really a Bolivian thing, but I'll take it! ~15 cents


Favorite snacks.



Mate de coca. Comforting. Warm. Kind of helped with the altitude. I don't think I ever got used to the altitude there though.


Sopa de mani



Use this salsa, llajwa, in your soup and entree. Hot and oh so good.


Milanesa con papas y plantains fritas y arroz.



Sopa de quinoa



My first taste of alpaca. Tender, interesting, and I liked it!


Group meal of beef, quinoa, vegetables, banana, and Coca-Cola.


Not really a soda drinker but for some reason, I ALWAYS crave it when I travel! Bad habit. :)



So shwarma didn't come from the Bolivians but they do add their own special Bolivian twist and I LOVE IT. They make it their own by adding llajwa into the garlic sauce and I am a big fan. So so good.

And last, but not least...



Again, loved adding llawja to everything.


My favorite dish. No double take here. Fried fish. Seriously, who doesn't love fried fish?!? Ispi y Trucha con choclo, chuno morado, chuno, y lima. I want this right. now.

With all these dishes and the many more not featured on here proves that the Bolivians not only know what they are doing in the kitchen but there are some good eats to be enjoyed and loved here. Give them a chance and don't dismiss it until you try it. :)

Saturday, May 26, 2012

La historia de Machu Picchu - Pt II

So previously I wrote in Spanish some of the reasons why Machu Picchu may have been built:

-A refuge for the Virgins of the Sun
-A religious site
-It was built for Emperor Pachacuti
Other theories I didn't mention were:
-A place to prepare for war/military
-Ceremonial site
-Royal estate

I could go on and on if able to but really, I can't really add my own opinion on Machu Picchu because I don't think there will ever be a conclusion to finding the real reason Machu Picchu was built. I believe it'll just remain a mystery forever. The Incas didn't leave any paper trails or clues as to why they built it so anyone could just look at the evidence aka artifacts and such found on site and looking at the site itself and come up with their own theories. Who knows, maybe someone's theory is accurate but no one agrees. Or maybe all the theories are wrong or way off?

Too many theories to look at that I just think they may throw people off and change their perception when they themselves check out this spectacular world wonder. My friend and I chose not to do any tours because 1)we were last minute in our plans and 2)we really wanted to experience Machu Picchu ourselves and not have to listen to a tour guide talk the whole time. We for sure wouldn't have seen or done as much if we had gone the tour route, which I prefer not to do.

Anyway, we walked by many tour groups as we were wandering around this true beauty and overheard many things from each tour guide. Both helpful and unhelpful points were given. Helpful if we were unsure about something/curious about a certain area, in which we could overhear a guide explaining it to his/her group and would make sense to us and help us understand its purpose. Unhelpful when you overhear every tour guide telling their group all the opinions/theories there are out there and then continuing with what they think is the accurate theory that explains why Machu Picchu was built. I heard every opinion from every tour guide and they were all different. No one was the same. How could you even come close to understanding Machu Picchu when you hear a completely different story from the people you may come across on your day there?

I decided to not think about any of the theories we heard until after we left Machu Picchu. And Nora completely agreed with me. Just thinking of all these theories would have made me try to 'uncover what really happened in Machu Picchu/why it was built' instead of appreciating what my eyes were seeing, taking the time to understand the Incas hard work, and precision/brains when it came to building on this land.

I wouldn't change a thing of how I made my way to Machu Picchu. I already have it in my head to return for another two day adventure there!:) I may not agree with using a tour guide BUT I really want to hike the trail next time, so I will have to suck it up and go on one because that's the only way you'll be able to trek to this land of the Incas. Then I'd probably go back again --bus this time!-- and really take my time there. Can't explain it but just by being there, it makes you think about life more and how to really appreciate it and to slow down.

Here are some pictures from my special day in Machu Picchu:



Just in time to watch the incredible sunrise.


What an amazing way to start a day.


Taking a moment to experience the site in different areas.


Just.had.to.:)


Found the path that led us up Machu Picchu mountain.


Urubamba


Almost to the top


DON'T LET GO!


I did it! Set my goal and I accomplished it!


Taken in the afternoon


Side view of the terraces


Templo del sol/Temple of the sun


La sala de las tres ventanas/The room with the three windows.


Intihuatana/Sundial


Llamas---beautiful animals


No words.


Llama face!


An 'unknown' room.


Side view


Taken right before sunset as we had to leave Machu Picchu...


This is one world wonder that should be put on your bucket list, top 10 things to do in life, and normal everyday goals. Machu Picchu is worth it.

Sunday, May 20, 2012

The Road and Train Tracks to Machu Picchu

So my original travel plan was to head to Bolivia with some time set aside to go back to Chile to check out its Northern side. I also wanted to go to Peru but I feared not having enough time to really take in the culture and see everything that I wanted to see in the time period that I had. My friend who wanted to head to Peru with me was unable to come along so I figured I would hold off until next time. So there was my plan as I had mentioned in my WMDR post: Bolivia and Chile.

...........Long story short............


Plans changed! I wanted to stay longer down in Uyuni but the weather was beyond freezing that it wasn't recommended due to some deaths having occurred out there because of the temperature. They also closed the Bolivian-Chilean border because of the weather conditions so there was no way of heading back to Chile at that time. So I decided to push Uyuni back until after I figured out what my new plan would be.

What to do now?


After talking with some friends I had made in Bolivia about Peru and if I should do it or continue on in Bolivia, they pretty much convinced me with just one statement: "Go to Machu Picchu. You are here now. When's the next chance you'll get to go to Peru? What if you never get the chance? It's worth it."

That was it for me.


I immediately emailed my friend Nora, who I met on a layover in Lima, who had told me she was going to be in Cusco for six weeks, told her not go to Machu Picchu without me because I was heading there! She was excited to hear she wasn't going on her own or having to find a travel bud to go with and right away she let me know where she was and lets go!

I booked the bus tickets, next morning I left La Paz for Cusco with some time in Copacabana/Lake Titicaca and Puno. Arrived at midnight and went on a search for her. Luck on my side, I ended up getting a bed in the room she was in and she was happy to see me, sticking to my word! Always.

Right away we got busy. Had to figure out how to get there and get our tickets. They only allow 2500 visitors a day to enter Machu Picchu. We had wanted to go right away but we soon realized that we wouldn't be able to go for almost a week. So I had extra time than I had anticipated and really got to check out Cusco. So much history there, it's unbelievable. Anyway, we quickly jumped on our tickets to Machu Picchu before we figured out how we were going to get there! :-p Luckily found two spots left on the train from Ollantaytambo--Aguas Calientes--Ollantaytambo. We jumped on those tickets right away! So so so lucky. This whole trip was luck!

Then we just had to figure out our way from Cusco--Ollantaytambo and Ollantaytambo--Cusco. We found a 'mini-bus' that makes the trip from Cusco--Ollantaytambo--Cusco at the bus station. Paid I believe $10,00-15,00 Soles ($3-5 US) and sat back for one crazy ride to Ollantaytambo. Cute little town with amazing Inca sites to see. Wandered around to find a good place to stay for the night.

Next day tried to see as much of Ollantaytambo that we could and somehow found the way up to really take in the Incan sacred sites, Pinkuylluna.






Headed to the train station and road for about an hour to Aguas Calientes. Before we left, we made friends with a taxi driver who took our names down and promised to take us back to Cusco as soon as we got back to Ollantaytambo so I could catch my bus back to La Paz---very tight! They said it was most likely going to be impossible that I would make it on time---boy were they wrong! Made it with 10 minutes to spare! Woo hoo!


Don't forget to try Inca Kola in Peru! Does wonders with Peruvian ceviche. :) Grabbed it for the train ride.

Aguas Calientes. Very small town full of people everywhere. Everything was booked and everyone was busy. We searched and searched and finally found a place to stay..AGAIN..it was all luck. First thing we did was, well we wanted to find somewhere to eat but gotta take care of business! Had to find the bus station to pay for a bus ticket to go from Aguas Calientes--Machu Picchu--Aguas Calientes. Made it there 1/2 an hour before it closed! Relaxed a little and found a place to eat some good food for an early dinner, knowing that we'd have to get up at 4 in the morning, and listen to beautiful Peruvian music. I could listen to it for hours...:)




Called it a night. Literally got everything ready so that when we woke up at 4 am, we could just get ready and leave! We lined up around 4:45 am waiting for the buses. Brrrr it was cold! Had some mate de coca (tea) to warm up and just waited patiently. Next time, I'll probably head there earlier because the line sure does get long!

And there we were...off to Machu Picchu!




And there you have it folks! If the timing is right and you have luck on your side, you can make it to Machu Picchu in a safe and crazy way! And spend not nearly as much as you would if you booked a tour/train/etc. Of course this was without hiking the trails but that can be arranged my next visit there!

I'd also like to answer my thought at the beginning of this entry with this: Peru is just incredible. And it is worth it to go now, for a day, for a week, month, or as long as you'd like. I'm glad I had some time to go there. I made the right decision. I've had a taste and I want more!!

*Tip: If you want to hike Huayna Picchu, make sure you look for that option when you book your Machu Picchu ticket. It costs $10US dollars more but its worth it. You can hike it at 7am or 10am. We missed out on that opportunity but we did end up hiking Machu Picchu mountain, which was free and with breathtaking views! Next time, I plan on hiking Huayna Picchu and then spend another day there really just taking it all in and relaxing. Such a fascinating site to see. Can you tell I'm in love with history?!
**Tip: Being in shape is a must! The altitude was fine for me because it's NOTHING compared to being in La Paz, Bolivia, but for those who aren't used to it + hiking up a mountain + the thousands of steps and things to do there = you will be tired! Adjust to the high altitude for a few days (or just go to La Paz ;), be in shape, and take it easy!
***There's a straight forward website where you can easily get Machu Picchu tickets/print them out. Email me and I'll send it to you!

Foodie LoVe

Backpacker LoVe